FW17 Essentials — The Oversized Coat
October 11 2017 Meet the Designer
Sofie D'Hoore
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Who is the Sofie D'Hoore customer?
The women who buy my clothes are independent, active in the worlds of theatre, dance, architecture, and visual arts. They cherish this independence and have a certain practicality about them. They appreciate the fact that my designs are simple, comfortable and fit for everyday life.
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Where do you gather your inspiration?
I draw constant inspiration from the fields of art, culture, and history. I believe that curiosity and wonder are imperative when you’re in my line of work.
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Describe the aesthetic of your home.
The best way to describe it would be empty and full of light. This should not come as a total surprise. Just like my designs, I want my home to exude liberty and freedom for my family and I to move around in.
What is your daily uniform?
My daily uniform consists of baggy pants, a white poplin top and a sweater in molleton or cashmere. I am constantly in and out of my own designs because I want to know how they feel and how I can move around in them.
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What is your morning ritual?
In the morning, I like to have a full continental breakfast while reading up on the news in the New York Times. The moment I leave for the studio, I become completely immersed in the collection I am working on—one of the reasons why I cherish this moment of quiet in the morning.
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How do you maintain balance in your life?
Every Friday afternoon, I say goodbye to my studio in Brussels. Before heading home, I take piano lessons to unwind. Then I am off to the seaside. Weekends consist of bicycle rides along the sea and doing handicrafts with my son. This balance between my work and my family life works surprisingly well.
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What is your ideal vacation spot?
As I am working on new collections almost all year round, I rarely take long holidays. Instead I prefer to take day trips to different cities. This can be abroad but I take as much pleasure in returning to my hometown Antwerp, for example. What do I do? Get triggered by the surroundings, visit as many beautiful museums as the city has to offer. Time after time, I leave with so many new impressions and ideas.
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About Sofie D'Hoore
Sofie D'hoore was born in Belgium in 1962. She graduated with a degree in dentistry from the University of Leuven at the age of 22. But realized her heart was in fashion and enrolled at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts at Antwerp. She worked in Milan where she took the role as head of production for the Belgian line "Private Collection." Eventually D'Hoore started a company called Fashion Ink with business partner Chantaal Spaas and her namesake label launched in the Fall of 1992.
The line came to be known for it's purist minimalism and and simple modern look. While there are whimsical elements to some of Sofie's designs in terms of colors and geometric proportions; she retains a modern practicality to her clothing that is both sophisticated and easy to move in.
Photos above by Jussi Puikkonen for Monocle.
October 05 2017
FW17 Essentials — The White Shirt
1 — MONOCHROMATIC LAYERS OF GREY AND COOL BLUE TONES ARE BROKEN UP WITH AN UNEXPECTED POP OF WHITE.
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2 — SOFTEN THE SCULPTED SHOULDERS OF THIS JACKET WITH A SLEEK UNDER- LAYER FOR A CLASSIC 90'S SILHOUETTE.
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3 — KEEP IT CLASSIC. PAIR THE BLAZER WITH HIGH-WAISTED TROUSERS TO ACCENTUATE ITS TAILORING AND TO EMPHASIZE A SMALL WAIST IN CONTRAST TO THE OVERSIZED SHOULDERS.
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4 — WORN WITH DENIM, THIS JACKET HAS A PLAYFUL YET REFINED FEEL—PERFECT FOR WEEKEND ERRANDS ON A COOL DAY.
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5 — PLAY WITH SHAPES BY ADDING WIDE-LEGGED PANTS.
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MEET THE DESIGNER
STEPHAN SCHNEIDER
WHO IS THE STEPHAN SCHNEIDER CLIENT?
MY CUSTOMER DOESN'T THINK OF FASHION IN TERMS OF A LUXURIOUS STATUS SYMBOL SHE APPRECIATES GARMENTS WITH AN EMOTION, STORY AND AN ATMOSPHERE. SHE BUYS PIECES FROM MY COLLECTION AS SHE FALLS IN LOVE WITH THE TOUCH OF THE FABRIC, THE SOPHISTICATED YET PRACTICAL SHAPE AND FEMININE BUT NOT LADYLIKE SILHOUETTE. NOT BECAUSE OF THE LABEL.
I FEEL MY CLIENT SEARCHES FOR GARMENTS CREATED WITH THE TRUE ESSENCE OF CLOTHING IN MIND AND IS NOT ATTRACTED TO BRANDS OR MARKETING.
WHAT'S IMPORTANT TO YOU WHEN DESIGNING FOR A WOMAN?
WOMENSWEAR IS OFTEN REDUCED TO REPRESENT POWER AND SEX. IT IS IMPORTANT TO ME TO BRING BASIC HUMAN ASPECTS LIKE HUMOR, CURIOSITY AND VANITY INTO THE GARMENTS. DURING THE PROCESS OF TAILORING I TAKE CARE TO LEAVE ENOUGH SPACE FOR THE NATURAL CHARMING PERSONALITY OF THE WOMAN. THE SILHOUETTE SHOULD NEVER BECOME A COVER.
WHERE DO YOU GATHER INSPIRATION?
I NEVER DRAW MY INSPIRATION FROM HISTORY BOOKS OR FUTURE FORECASTS. I GET INSPIRED BY THE EVERYDAY REALITY AROUND ME.
WHAT IS YOUR DAILY UNIFORM?
I AM PRIVILEGED TO BE ABLE TO WEAR ONLY MY OWN CLOTHES. IT IS A GOOD TEST FOR ME TO SEE WHICH GARMENTS I PICK FROM THE COLLECTION. IT IS MY PRIVATE MOMENT OF RESEARCH!
WHAT IS YOUR MORNING RITUAL?
DURING THE WEEK, I HAVE A QUICK 20 MINUTE ROUTINE:
WAKE UP UNDER THE SHOWER AND HAVE TWO CUPS OF HOT WATER WITH LEMON. LUCKILY, I CAN CYCLE TO MY ATELIER AND START THE DAY WITH FRESH AIR. DURING THE WEEKEND I ENJOY A LONG EXTENSIVE BREAKFAST FOLLOWED BY A SHORT POWERNAP!
DESCRIBE THE AESTHETIC OF YOUR HOME.
FOR MORE THAN 10 YEARS I LIVED IN AN AUTHENTIC ANTWERP BELLE EPOQUE APARTMENT WITH STUCCO CEILING AND HERRINGBONE PARQUET. THE FURNITURE WAS MID CENTURY VINTAGE TREASURES. LAST YEAR, I MOVED TO A MODERN ROOFTOP PENTHOUSE WITH SURROUNDING TERRAS. I WAS IN NEED OF LIGHT AS THE NARROW HISTORIC STREETS OF ANTWERP HARDLY LET ANY SUNSHINE IN. ACTUALLY, I NEVER THOUGHT I WOULD EVER ENJOY CLEAN AND UNASSUMING ARCHITECTURE. THESE DAYS I ENJOY THE FEELING OF FREEDOM OF LIVING IN THE ATMOSPHERE OF A HOTEL. 
HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN BALANCE IN YOUR LIFE?
INDEPENDENCE IS KEY. I WORK FULLY INDEPENDENT FROM INVESTORS, BANKS OR ANY CONTRACTUAL LIABILITIES. THEREFORE I CAN CONCENTRATE ON MY WORK AS A DESIGNER. TO ME WORK AND PRIVATE LIFE ARE NOT ENEMIES BUT COMPLIMENT EACH OTHER.
WHAT IS YOUR IDEAL VACATION SPOT?
I INHERITED MY GRANDMA'S HOUSE IN A REMOTE PLACE IN THE GERMAN COUNTRY SIDE CALLED 'EIFEL.' WITH THE FRESH AIR AND VOLCANIC WATER MY BODY RELAXES THE MOMENT I ARRIVE.
WHAT INSPIRED YOUR FALL COLLECTION?
EVERY COLLECTION I GET DRIVEN BY A SPECIFIC ATMOSPHERE. THIS FALL WINTER COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY PUBLIC CLOCKS FOUND AT STATIONS OR SUBURBAN PEDESTRIAN MALLS. THIS SEASON I BLENDED A NAIVE FEELING OF CURIOSITY WITH ONE OF INTIMACY. THE DOUBLE ENTENDRE OF THE TITEL 'INTIME' BEING INTIMATE AND PUNCTUAL SETS THE MOOD FOR THIS SEASON.
AT MARKET WE DISCUSSED A CLOSE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE WAY YOU LIVE YOUR LIFE AND THE WAY YOUR GARMENTS ARE MADE. CAN YOU SPEAK MORE ON THE PROCESS THAT GOES INTO MAKING YOUR GARMENTS?
IT IS IMPORTANT TO ME THAT ALL GARMENTS ARE MANUFACTURED IN BELGIUM. NOT BECAUSE OF A BETTER FINISHING BUT TO BE ABLE TO MAINTAIN A VERY PERSONAL AND UNCOMPROMISING DESIGN LANGUAGE. I WANT MY GARMENTS TO LOOK AS SIMPLE AND EFFORTLESS AS POSSIBLE BUT AT THE SAME TIME UNIQE AND SOPHISTICATED. THEREFORE, I NEED TO WORK AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE WITH MY MAKERS SO THAT THE EMOTION OF THE GARMENT DOES NOT GET LOST IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING. BY MANUFACTURING IN BELGIUM I CAN VISIT MY MAKERS ON A WEEKLY BASIS, DURING THE COLLECTION PERIOD, OFTEN EVERYDAY. LOYALTY IS A KEY WORD IN MY WORK. I WORK TOGETHER WITH SOME OF MY MAKERS SINCE THE VERY FIRST COLLECTION. I WANT TO INVEST ON A LONG-TERM BASIS, MY DESIGN KNOWLEDGE WITH THEIR TECHNICAL SKILLS. IT IS TEMPTING TO CHOOSE EVERY SEASON A DIFFERENT SUPPLIER AND START WITH A WHITE SHEET OF PAPER. I RATHER BUILD UP A RELATIONSHIP GETTING TO KNOW THEIR STRENGTH AND PUSHING THE TECHNICAL POSSIBILITIES FURTHER EVERY SEASON.
All images courtesy of Stephan Schneider
Photographer Joachim Mueller-Ruchholtz
Models: Caroline, Lisa, Patricia at IMM Bruxelles
About Stephan Schneider
In 1994, Stephan Schneider graduated at the top of his class from the Royal Academy for Fine Arts in Antwerp. His presentation at Paris Fashion week was immediately successful and so began his namesake label. Every year since then he has presented both his men's and women's collections during Paris Fashion Weeks and has been sold at over 70 retailers world-wide. In 1996 his first flagship store opened in Antwerp. The intent behind his collection is to maintain a highly personal touch with his designs and garments. Keeping a close eye on the quality of his production facilities in his local Belgian factories. Elements that define his collection are structured yet soft, austere yet gentle with traces of authenticity and idealism.
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September 02 2017
MEET THE DESIGNERS
TERESITA AND GABRIELA ARTIGAS
WHO IS THE GABRIELA ARTIGAS CUSTOMER?
Anyone who has a sense of individuality and sensibility. Our customers know what they want and they respect the value of our pieces, designs and aesthetic. We are determined and confident with a big interest on design and we like to think we translate that through our pieces.
Where do you gather inspiration?
Our inspiration stems from an intangible moment. I gain inspiration from all the things that are around me that I am not consciously aware of. Inspiration for me means constantly growing and changing—it is a feeling rather than a specific moment.
What is your daily uniform?
G: Skirts and sneakers are a staple in my everyday wardrobe. I love wearing loose-fitting clothes but also like to dress it up sometimes with my favorite pair of loafers. White tops are an absolute must and also provide a great background for taking pictures of my jewelry.
T: Button downs and sneakers or babouches, I'm still not used to this weather! For jewelry, I wear my Pave infinite tusk earring, 3 ear cuffs which I stack and my Pave Cigar band ring everyday. I'll also wear our Egg brooch on whatever light coat I leave home with.
Describe the aesthetic of your home.
G: I have always loved mid-century modern houses and aesthetics. My brother is a furniture designer and his designs are very clean with a lot of solid wood. I don't have a lot of decorative pieces but there is a lot of art hanging on the walls.
T: Plants are a part of my living; I have a beautiful curly fig in the middle of my living room in a Gainey white planter. It’s an all white house with a royal blue door. Gaby and I love going vintage furniture shopping so over the years I’ve been buying mid-century furniture. There’s a lot of walnut furniture, plenty of Ferns plants and all kind of ceramics. I have a small apartment, but I’ve become very good at organizing and making space...
What is your go to beauty product?
G: I have been using rose water everyday for the past 10 years of my life. I use it as a toner, makeup remover, and moisturizer. I also love Korean beauty products.
T: Gaby got me into Rose Water so now I use it all the time. I try to do lipstick or lip moisturizer constantly, I really like KOSAS.
Where in Mexico are you from and how has the country and region inspired you?
G: I am grounded to my roots. I take the memories and culture with me everywhere. I love Mexico and it will always be my home.
T: Southern Mexico City, very close to the national university. The house that we grew up in was built on volcanic rocks, very organic, very natural. So maybe from there we learned to respect nature's order.
What you are wearing from your collection right now?
G: Pave twin tusk ring in yellow, Rising tusk ring in yellow, pave subtle cuff white diamonds, Pave cut out pedestal ring in rose gold, small balloon ring in yellow, lunula earrings in 14k white gold flipped up.
T: Sterling Egg Brooch, Twin and Reloaded Ear cuffs and the Lunula choker in sterling.
How do maintain balance in your life?
G: I recently start running again. I used to run in high school and I loved it so I'm hoping it sticks again. I love spending time with my friends and also getting lots of rest.
T: I work hard and rest harder!
What is your ideal vacation spot?
G: For a winter vacation I would love to go somewhere cold and snowboard and for a summer vacation I would love to go to a lake.
T: The beach, but it has to be tropical with a hammock and just listen to the waves. I like very mellow places where the ocean is warm.
About the Brand
Gabriela Artigas and Teresita Artigas launched their namesake jewelry collection in 2003, in Los Angeles, after a random passerby bought a necklace Gabriela designed, right off their mother's neck. In 2008, Teresita moved to LA and signed on full time to help Gabriela with the line. The sisters handle different aspects of the business. Teresita handles more of the business side while Gabriela handles the creative side. The brand is heavily influenced by the sister's home country, Mexico, and the idea of family. As a result the jewelry line is a combination of cultural references and feelings of unity. The pieces are inspired by minimalist ideals and architecture and are meant to be timeless heirlooms which can be passed onto subsequent generations.
Meet the Designer
Fabiana Pigna
Who is the Fabiana Pigna customer?
A strong woman who appreciates a minimal approach to clothing and has a romantic attitude about the past.
Where do you gather your inspiration?
I like to collect ideas from a million different places, the more eclectic it gets, the better it is for my brain. Almodóvar's kitschy movies from the early 90's, a rainy afternoon at Pasadena's Norton Simon Museum or the online customer library at the MET. Also, old music videos. I love Róisín Murphy, Björk, Patty Pravo, Soul Train footage... I can go on forever. I'm a YouTube junkie!
What is your daily uniform?
If I am in the studio working, then it is cropped jeans a beat-up sweatshirt and a pair of espadrilles. When I go out, however, I like to take my latest blouse prototype for a test drive. I'll wear it with minimal black trousers and a pair of second hand Robert Clergerie suede pumps.
Describe the aesthetic of your home.
I am emotional about furniture and décor. Everything in my house has some sort of backstory or sentimental value. I tend to mix styles, it keeps things warm and inviting. Being from Venezuela, I like to collect colonial mementos and native saint sculptures from South America. I also love 1980's modernist Bauhaus revival, art nouveau artifacts, and a little bit of Danish modern here and there.
What is your morning ritual?
Guzzle a big glass of water, play with my dog, get the coffee brewing and listen to NPR'S morning news with my husband while we make breakfast. After all is said and done, I dive in to my home studio, answer emails, and continue a pattern or sewing work that was left pending from the night before.
How do you maintain balance in your life?
I'm not sure if I really have figured that out yet! To keep my sanity, I take a couple of power walks with my dog throughout the day and try to have a sit down breakfast and dinner with my husband. We cook as much as possible, it helps us relax and decompress together.
What is your ideal vacation spot?
Japan is one of my favorite places in the world. Every time that I daydream of escaping somewhere, my mind keeps going back there. I get really restless on leisurely getaways and become bored after day 3. A vacation where there is a lot of urban exploring is ideal for me, and Japan is truly an explosion of the senses!
Inspirational imagery from Fabiana's instagram.
ABOUT FABIANA PIGNA
Fabiana Pigna is a Venezuelan fashion designer based in Los Angeles, California. She received a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design at the Art Institute of California where she studied and worked under Oscar Carvallo. In 2014 she launched her line of tightly edited sculptural blouses, dresses and trousers with a casual minimalist tone."A clean line is a statement of intent, but when worn it can become an expression of self, of complex identity, of the blurred lines between masculinity and femininity." The collection is exclusively developed and produced in Los Angeles.
June 07 2017
Apiece Apart Trunk Show - You're Invited
APIECE APART TRUNK SHOW
Meet co-founder & designer
Laura Cramer and get inspired by her Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
Austin, TX
Friday, May 19th 12-5pm
624 North Lamar
Houston
Saturday, May 20th 12-5pm
2565 Kirby Drive
SHOP APIECE APART | VIEW APIECE APART SPRING 17 COLLECTION
Summer 2017 Lookbook
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
Photography and Styling: Albert Mendez
Model: Jessica Thompson
VIEW THE ENTIRE LOOKBOOK
May 11 2017 Meet the Designer
SERAFINA SAMA OF ISA ARFEN
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Where do you gather your inspiration?
It’s a cliche, I know, but I believe that if you look around with curious eyes you can find inspiration behind every corner. Art exhibitions, music documentaries, contemporary ballet, an old photograph, anything can trigger that initial mood or feeling that an entire collection is then built around. I have a soft spot for vintage magazines archive. I could spend entire days in a library devouring volumes of British Vogue from the 1960s, Vogue Paris from the 1970s and early 80s and Vogue Italia from the late 1980s and early 90s. I also have a habit of taking sneaky photographs of older ladies doing their grocery shopping or waiting at the bus stop… they always seem to wear the most fantastic trench coats with the perfect oversize proportions.
What is your daily uniform?
I live in jeans, mostly high waisted, either vintage Levi’s or Rockins, and white Isa Arfen shirts or black or white slogan t-shirts from The Deep End Club. I wear an oversize Isa Arfen trench coat almost every day, and at the moment I am obsessed with a pair of black studded pointy Prada flats. If I am going out after work I change to Charlotte Olympia velvet high heels, throw an Isa Arfen tulle apron skirt over my jeans and add a bold piece of jewelry by my friend and favourite jewelry designer Giorgio Vigna.
Describe the aesthetic of your home.
I would say it’s eclectic, very British in structure but very Italian in decor. Plants play a big role in it, as do a few quite decadent pieces of furniture, like a standing multicolour Murano glass chandelier and a 1970s Willy Rizzo mirror coffee table that opens up to reveal a cocktail bar inside!
What is your go to beauty product?
Cle de Peau concealer in Beige is basically my pocket-size Photoshop. I also love Caudalie Beauty Elixir, especially when I am feeling tired, which is most of the time.
How do you maintain balance in your life?
I am still trying to work it out! Spending time with my 6-year old boy Ari instantly takes my mind away from all the work-related stress and reminds me of the important things in life, so evenings and weekends together are sacred. A lunch break Pilates class can be helpful to clear my head and release some tension, and some pyrite cubes on my desk seem to help me focus on my work. Flower shopping on a Saturday morning, a night out at the ballet with my husband or a late night karaoke session with some friends are instant mood lifters!
What is your idea of a perfect getaway?
I love escaping to Formentera in the Balearic Islands with my family, some close friends and all our children. I have been spending my summers there since I was 12 years old so it’s a place full of precious memories for me. I love the crystalline waters, relaxed vibe and sense of freedom… Good food, good music, good wine and good friends, some dancing and a lot of laughter are my perfect recipe for a perfect getaway.
About Serafina Sama
Serafina grew up in Ravenna, Italy. She attended the Central Saint Martin's School of Art and Design and gradated in 2006. Afterwards, she worked in Paris as a design assistant at Chloe. In 2008, she moved to London where she continued to work freelance projects for Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Marni, Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Acne and Charlotte Olympia. Serafina Sama founded Isa Arfen in 2011. The London - based brand puts a relaxed and feminine spin on retro glamour. “To me fashion is about desire, beauty and fun shot through with a touch of aristocratic sensibility."
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